Having had a couple of days off , I decided to visit the Orkney Islands , at last . I have always wanted to go there , so there was a possibility . Maybe the time of the year wasn't right to venture , but I thought that in the summer time the weather would be bad as well . Wind , rain and fog - that's normal weather all the year on this northern Scottish archipelago .
There are two ways to get to the Orkney. One is by the ferry - from Scrabster , Gills and Aberdeen. The second one is by the plane to Kirkwall , Orkney's main town.
There is a network of ferries between Kirkwall and smaller isles and , what is interesting , the shortest sheduled airlink between two north islands - Westray and Papa Westray .
And if somebody would like to go further north , the ferry from Kirkwall to Lervick on Shetlands .
But firstly I had to get to the ferry terminal in Scrabster (Thurso) wchich lies on the northern tip of Scottish mainland , from where the ferry cross The Pentland Firth only within 1,30 hrs , comparing to 6 hrs cruise from Aberdeen . So because Janusz, eager to go skiing in Aviemore , was going by the car the same direction , I took advantage of that and went with him . From Edinburgh , passing Perth and Inverness , we reached Wick and before going to ferry , we drove up to visit John o' Groat , and land's end nearby. The place is famous for the Duncansby Head , the north - east tip of UK's mainland , with lighthouse on the cliff and view towards Orkneys. So we got out of the car by the lighthouse , and very strong wind stroke us immediately. So after taking just a couple of pictures ,we came back to the car , struggling the gale .
Back at John o' Groat , we stoped at the local harbour , where is a visitor centre and during the summer season special ferry takes tourists to the Orkneys and back .
The road to Wick along the north - east coast , in Caithness .
Muckle Stack , at Duncansby Head , marks the end of land near John o' Groat
Around the harbour in John o' Groat
Janusz delivered me to Scrabster harbour late afternoon , where I was to take the ferry to Stromness . When I left the bar where I had had a cup of tea , waiting for my ferry , I met Mariusz and Karolina . They informed me that the ferry had been cancelled , due to the stormy weather . The last ferry that saturday . They needed to find the accomodation for the night then , so did I . So we alltogether marched to Thurso , where we found rooms in the hotel , not far away from Scrabster harbour. In the morning we continued our journey together , exploring Kirkwall and main island during the next to days .
Capturing the elements - somewhere in the Pentland Firth
View from the ferry towards Hoy , the second largest island in the archipelago
The ferry crossing to Stromness is worth taking because of the view of the Old Man of Hoy , which is a huge , vertical stack ( rock formation sticking out of water ) on the west coast of Hoy Island . But unfortunately , due to uneasy waters , the ferry boat took direction along east side of Hoy , across Scapa Flow waters. Nevertheless , we enjoyed the scenery around this huge , natural harbour (on average the waters are deep 30 metres ) . The Scapa Flow basin used to be long the base for British Royal Navy, thanks to strategic location and during I and II World Wars the important naval battles took place there.
Approaching the ferry terminal in Stromness
St. Magnus Cathedral , Kirkwall
St. Magnus Cathedral seen from the Earl's Palace
During the summer season , Kirkwall hosts many tourists , the weather is better then for bird watching or discovering all islands treasures on the bike . Now in february , very few tourists were coming, mainly during weekends . So the town seemed to be sleepy , no rush on the streets , local people living in very slow, routine rythm . Nobody was in hurry . The better for us - we could taste the charm of these small streets or drink tea in a local tea room .
Streets of Kirkwall
But in general Orkney Islands are known for their neolithic heritage. Especially on the Mainland, but on the other islands too . Over centuries this land attracted settlers , thanks to fertile soils . After ancient people of stone age, who left megalithic structures , Pictish came , marking the land with round towers named brochs and stone villages around them . Later on Viking from Norway settled and build churches and palaces .
On the second day in Kirkwall , we rented a car and made a tour around the main island . That was a nice ride and a couple of sites that was worth seeing , like Maes How tomb , 4000 years old . The guide inside the tomb told us that Vikings broke there when stopped on Orkney Islands in 12 th century . Still many scandinavian runs are visible inside , carved by Vikings . On the next stop , in Scara Brae , we could see the site only partly , as they were closing when we came . What is a pity . This neolithic settlement excavated from the sand , last inhabitted 4500 years ago , looked impressive .
Neolithic villlage of Scara Brae
Another place of interest is a small village Birsay , on the nort west tip of the mainland . Now a place of no significance (exept for historic sites) , but originally it was the capital of Orkney Earldom in XI th century . The first cathedral was build in Birsay in 1064 by Earl Thorfinn and Bishop of Orkney was established .Now on the place of first cathedral stands St. Magnus Church . Later Robert Stewart , son of Scottich king James, was granted rule of Orkney in 1565 and he built his residence in Birsay -Earl's Palace - nowadays just remains of the great building
And Brought of Birsay - small tidal island nearby worth visiting - we couldnt't go there as the tide was high when we came . On the island there are remains of viking's buildings and romanesque church . Interesting thing is , 300 years earlier before Vikings arrival , Pictish church was built on the Brough of Birsay. The whole place in the late afternoon sun seemed to be really magical .
Tidal Island Brough of Birsay .
St. Magnus Church , Birsay
Earls Palace
Nice surprise awaited me in Stromness , when I came there from Kirkwall , to catch the first ferry back to Scrabster next morning . Around the midday the sky cleared out and I enjoyed a walk over the hill overlooking the harbour and along the old town to the Ness Point .
The old town is very beautiful , stretching from the harbour along the shore . This part of the town looks as if the time has stopped there. Some buildings originate from 18 th century, when the town was an important trade post for Hudson's Bay Company and the base for whaling fleet . Many Orkadians were employed by the Company in Canada ,amongst them the famous arctic explorer from Stromness , John Rae . Rae in 1854 discovered Rae Strait , which was the last link in the Northern Passage . So as I was walking in empty closes of the Old Town , it seemed nothing has changed since the imperial times of trade with Canada . Only instead of sailing ships the view of ferry arriving across the bay toward the pier .
From the Old Town I took tem minutes walk to the Point of Ness , which is a view point toward the open ocean and Hoy Island . Just a stone throw there is a golf course - what a perfect spot for playing golf .
View from Point of Ness across Hoy Sound
Golf course by the Point of Ness
I could stay in Stromness longer , such a nice place it was . But had to go back after a day spent in the town , on the very first ferry the next day.When boarded the ferry in the morning I hoped to see the famous Old Man of Hoy , this rocky column on west coast of Hoy , but it was too dark when the ferry was passing .What a pity . In Scrabster the Orkney journey was finished .
I could stay in Stromness longer , such a nice place it was . But had to go back after a day spent in the town , on the very first ferry the next day.When boarded the ferry in the morning I hoped to see the famous Old Man of Hoy , this rocky column on west coast of Hoy , but it was too dark when the ferry was passing .What a pity . In Scrabster the Orkney journey was finished .
Ferry arriving at the Scrabster terminal
