The Orkney delight





Having had a couple of days off , I decided to visit the Orkney Islands , at last . I have always wanted to go there , so there was a possibility . Maybe the time of the year wasn't  right  to venture , but I thought that in the summer time the weather would be bad as well . Wind , rain and fog - that's normal weather all the year on this northern Scottish archipelago .

There are two ways to get to the Orkney. One is by the ferry - from Scrabster , Gills and Aberdeen. The second one is by the plane to Kirkwall , Orkney's main town.          

There is a network of ferries between Kirkwall and smaller isles and , what is interesting , the shortest sheduled airlink between two north islands - Westray and Papa Westray .
And if somebody would like to go further north , the ferry from Kirkwall to Lervick on Shetlands .









But firstly I had to get to the ferry terminal in Scrabster (Thurso) wchich lies on the northern tip of Scottish mainland , from where the ferry cross The Pentland Firth only within 1,30 hrs , comparing to 6 hrs cruise from Aberdeen . So because Janusz,  eager to go skiing in Aviemore , was going by the car the same direction , I took advantage of that and went with him . From Edinburgh , passing Perth and Inverness , we reached Wick and before going to ferry , we drove up to visit John o' Groat , and land's end nearby. The place is famous for the Duncansby Head , the north - east tip of  UK's mainland , with lighthouse on the cliff and view towards Orkneys. So we got out  of the car by the lighthouse , and very strong wind stroke  us immediately. So after taking just a couple of pictures ,we came back to the car , struggling  the gale .
Back at John o' Groat , we stoped at the local harbour , where is a visitor centre  and during the summer season special ferry takes tourists to the Orkneys and back .

       






The road to Wick along the north - east coast , in Caithness .

       





Muckle Stack , at Duncansby Head , marks the end of land near John o' Groat 

       





Around the harbour in John o' Groat











Janusz delivered me to Scrabster harbour late afternoon , where I was to take the ferry to Stromness . When I left the bar where I had had a cup of tea , waiting for my ferry , I met Mariusz and Karolina . They informed me that the ferry had been cancelled , due to the stormy weather . The last ferry that saturday . They needed to find the accomodation for the night then , so did I . So we alltogether marched to Thurso , where we found rooms in the hotel , not far away from Scrabster harbour. In the morning we continued our journey together , exploring  Kirkwall and main island during the next to days .

Capturing the elements - somewhere in the Pentland Firth 

View from the ferry towards Hoy , the second largest island in the archipelago                                   






The ferry crossing to Stromness is worth taking because of the view of the Old Man of Hoy , which is a huge , vertical stack ( rock formation sticking out of water ) on the west coast of Hoy Island . But unfortunately , due to uneasy waters , the ferry boat took direction along east side of Hoy , across Scapa Flow waters. Nevertheless , we enjoyed the scenery around this huge , natural harbour (on average the waters are deep 30 metres ) . The Scapa Flow basin used to be long the base for British Royal Navy, thanks to strategic location and during I and II World Wars the important naval battles took place there. 

Approaching the ferry terminal in Stromness

We didn't stay in Stromness when we left the ferry , just took stright away the bus to Kirkwall , which is the best place to stay on the Orkneys , either due to accomodation or good base for exploring the Islands. Firstly , we visited an old Cathedral in Kirkwall, build in 12 th century by Vikings, who ruled Orkney for 500 years. Build from red sandstone, it looks very impressive. The old town , quite small one, looks very cute. There is a craft shop with a traditionaly made wool clothes and souvenirs. In rainy days I would recommend to visit Orkney Museum or Old Whiskey Distillery .

 









 St. Magnus Cathedral , Kirkwall

St. Magnus Cathedral seen from the Earl's  Palace

                                                                                       

  

 

During the summer season , Kirkwall hosts many tourists , the weather is better then for bird watching or discovering all islands treasures on the bike . Now in february , very few tourists were coming, mainly  during weekends . So the town seemed to be sleepy , no rush on the streets , local people living in very slow, routine rythm . Nobody was in hurry . The better for us - we could taste the charm of these small streets or drink tea in a local tea room .

Streets of Kirkwall                                                                                                                                                                                                                    

But in general Orkney Islands are known for their neolithic heritage. Especially on the Mainland, but on the other islands too . Over centuries this land attracted settlers , thanks to fertile soils . After ancient people of stone age, who left megalithic structures , Pictish came , marking the land with round towers named brochs and stone villages around them . Later on Viking from Norway settled and build churches and palaces .

                                                             Standing stones of Stennes

On the second day in Kirkwall , we rented a car and made a tour around the main island . That was a nice ride and a couple of sites that was worth seeing , like Maes How tomb ,  4000 years old . The guide inside the tomb told us that Vikings broke there when stopped on Orkney Islands in 12 th century . Still many scandinavian runs are visible inside , carved by Vikings . On the next stop , in Scara Brae , we could see the site only partly , as they were closing when we came . What is a pity . This neolithic settlement excavated from the sand , last inhabitted 4500 years ago , looked impressive .

Neolithic villlage of Scara Brae

Another place of interest is a small village Birsay , on the nort west tip of the mainland . Now a place of no significance (exept for historic sites) , but originally it was the capital of Orkney Earldom in XI th century . The first cathedral was build in Birsay in 1064 by Earl Thorfinn and Bishop of Orkney was established .Now on the place of first cathedral stands St. Magnus Church . Later Robert Stewart , son of Scottich king James, was granted rule of Orkney in 1565 and he built his residence in Birsay -Earl's Palace - nowadays just remains of the great building 

                                                                                                                  

And Brought of  Birsay - small tidal island nearby worth visiting - we couldnt't go there as the tide was high when we came . On the island there are remains of viking's buildings and romanesque church . Interesting thing is  , 300 years earlier before Vikings arrival , Pictish church was built on the Brough of Birsay. The whole place in the late afternoon sun seemed to be really magical .                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

Tidal Island Brough of Birsay .

St. Magnus Church , Birsay

Earls Palace

                   

Nice surprise awaited me in Stromness , when I came there from Kirkwall , to catch the first ferry  back to Scrabster next morning . Around the midday the sky cleared out and I enjoyed a  walk over the hill  overlooking the harbour and along the old town to the Ness Point .     

The old town is very beautiful , stretching from the harbour along the shore . This part of the town looks as if the time has stopped there. Some buildings originate from 18 th century, when the town was an important trade post for Hudson's Bay Company and the base for whaling fleet . Many Orkadians were employed by the Company in Canada ,amongst them the famous arctic explorer from Stromness , John Rae . Rae in 1854 discovered Rae Strait , which was the last link in the Northern Passage . So as I was walking in empty closes of the Old Town , it seemed  nothing has changed since the imperial times of trade with Canada . Only instead of sailing ships the view of ferry arriving across the bay toward the  pier .                                                                

                                                         

From the Old Town I took tem minutes walk to the Point of Ness , which is a view point toward the open ocean and Hoy Island . Just a stone throw there is a golf course - what a perfect spot for playing golf .

                                   View from Point of Ness across Hoy Sound

       

                                                         

        Golf course by the Point of Ness













I could stay in Stromness longer , such a nice place it was . But had to go back after a day spent in the town ,  on the very first ferry the next day.When boarded the ferry in the morning I hoped to see the famous Old Man of Hoy , this rocky column on west coast of Hoy , but it was too dark when the ferry was passing .What a pity . In Scrabster the Orkney journey was finished .

Ferry arriving at the Scrabster terminal

Across Pentland Hills

Because I have walked on many occasions in Pentland Hills, criss - crossing the north part of the range , I thought why not to walk these hills starting from the other end . From the south tip to the north .
At last I planned it for the last Saturday. The forecast was brilliant-sunny and dry weather according to BBC. So next morning I caught a mini coach going to West Linton, along with Janus. He joined me , wanting to start exercising this year before marathon season.

The Pentland Hills stretches out 20 miles from the suburbs of Edinburgh to the south - west , into Scottish Borders region. So we used service 101 operated by MacEvans on the route Edinburgh - Dumfries. We got off at West Linton then. The conditions weren't such promising as the forecast the evening before. No sun and mist over the hills. Nevertheless , there was no wind nor rain.We turn  right from the main road in the village , to the Baddinsgill Reservoir. The asphalt road passes by the golf course on the left , through Glen Ely Wood later on , nice woody valley. The reservoir is on the right hand side , and is well visible when the route ascends behind Baddinsgill Farm . Then asphalt road changes into sandy one ,   actually muddy as frozen ground (previous night was really chilly) started to melt. The signpost showed us direction to Scald Law, so to the north of Pentlands. We were walking this winding road up and down among fields of heather.

There was no signs of civilization, the one could barely believe it was just a couple of miles from Edinburgh. All over around us , only moors , hills covered with mist and sometimes sheep.

The area in Glen Ely is perfect for walking and close to Baddinsgil Reservoir . Just real oasis of trees among bare hills .












At some point when we were fairly far away of Baddinsgill Reservoir,our trail split up.The main route goes to Harperring  Reservoir ,  between West and East Cairns , the narrower path were going to the right ,  down. There was no marked indications which one is proper. After confusing moments and going forth and back , we choose finally the third way , making shortcut and by descending firstly to the little burn and then climbing steep slopes of East Cairn. I don't recommend this kind of hiking , however. It took much energy to climb and it is usually longer way .
                                                                                                                  

      Boats  among mountains hills - probably they have been used for fishing on the Baddinsgil Reservoir next to , as Pentlands' reservoirs are known for fishing activities

  

Mist covered the mountains - the route to Harperring Reservoir 

Anyway , when we got close enough to the summit of East Cairn , we found main trail leading down , along

the wall . The views were fantastic , despite the gloomy sky . Although Pentland Hills aren't too high  ( not over 2000 feet ) , it felt like standing over Highlands . Vast areas of Scottish Borders , just looking to the south , made that impression even stronger. After having had a lunch and a while of rest , we went the route down . Below the hill we  trails were crossing , by the group of trees , which were very picturesque in this scenery , completely devoided of trees . The crossing lies at place called Bore Stane. We took a turn to the right , according to signpost this was the path to " Nine Miles Burn " . We were just following a burn which runs to North Esk Reservoir , to the East . Official trail to the main Pentland range leads down , passing the reservoir and then turning left and up , towards the Skips. But we didn't reach the reservoir . Instead ,  we made another shortcut , turning left earlier , and up alongside a wall .                                                                         

Looking to the North - East , from the East Cairn Hill      

                                                                                                                                                                                          At the place called Bore Stane there is  a crossroad ; a cluster of larches and pines grow there marking the spot . The route to Nine Mile Burn goes by the North Esk Reservoir ,where from you can get to The Skips and Scald Law.                                                                                                                                                      On this picture the view from the crossroad towards East Cairn                                  

                                                                            The path  to the North Esk Reservoir leads along the wall

    On the path to the cone-shaped West Skip , the steepest hill in Pentlands

                                                                                                                                                            

West Skip was a bit "crowded",comparing to south parts of the range. No wonder , this peak is closer to Edinburgh , so easier and quicker for short escapade. When we climbed to the summit , the sky become brighter. The sun , low over horizon's line in the south , was preparing to set down . It looked as if far away, behind the sheet of dark clouds , the sky was clear and full of sun . We were joking that over there , in England , the Heavens were favourable. Anyway , after having looked around , we rushed down the path to East Skip , as twilight was about to come . Quick climb and to another hill , Scald Law , which is the highest peak in Pentland Hills ( 579 m). At the summit a small surprise awaited us ; the beautiful sunset over Borders . The nice "culmination" of the day .  

On the top of West Skip

The summit of Scald Law and sunset in the background

The trail continued ahead north to Carnethy Hill , but we didn't make this way . The dusk was coming , so we went down , turning left to Loganlea Reservoir , where from we choose the path to Balerno . That was the shortest way to get out of Pentlands , catching bus in Balerno . 

                                                    The path to Carnethy Hill  

The last leg of our journey led us along this little burn , which pours into Loganlea Reservoir. After a half an hour walk we got to Threipmuir Reservoir and over the bridge there , got at last bus stop in full darkness   

The route of our walk is  marked on the map ,  roughly shows the way from West Linton to Balerno and doesn't cover fully official trails as we did two significant shortcuts                                                                                               

PERTHSHIRE - Big Tree Country

I went in September with friend on a short excursion to the north of Perth , one Saturday , and I have been planning to write about that since then . Mainly around Dunkeld , visiting old cathedral there , nice tree gardens just next to , and the falls on river Braan . So I found out there from a brochure that Pertshire County is called Big Tree Country - because nowhere else in Europe grows so many big trees . Many exotic specimens are cultivated in numerous gardens , and many heritage trees can be found . The Birnam Oak is a remnant of the ancient Birnam Wood , made famous by Shakespeare in Macbeth . And the ancient yew at Fortingall is believed to be the oldest tree in Europe . I recommend to look at this website ;
http://www.perthshirebigtreecountry.co.uk/

But in Perthshire not only trees can attract . I have been to this county a couple of times and can only encourage coming there , if you want to taste Scottish landscape and history . The county is situated in the heart of Scotland ( the towns like Aberfeldy or Pitlochry claims to lie at the geographical centre of Scotland ).Thanks to a good road network is possible quickly move away to other parts of the country .

Perth , Scottish capital in the late middle ages , is worth visiting for a couple of hours , at least . The Palace of Scone , just off Perth , the crowning site of Kings of Scots , is must see place . And Dunkeld , which I mentioned before , in the 9th century was established by king Kenneth McAlpin as religious capital of Scotland . Some interesting castles , with Blair Castle on the top could be seen .

Surely the small Victorian resort , Pitlochry , is iconic in this region . Fine place for relaxing time in this splendour little town , among Grampian Mountains . In Pertshire there are many nice historic towns and villages , like Dunkeld , Aberfeldy , Crieff .

Pertshire is known also for its waterfalls , the most famous , Falls of Moness by Aberfeldy . The western part of the county is covered with many Lochs , just to mention Loch Tay , Loch Tummel and Rannoch .

Nevertheless , a few images taken in the Big Tree Country .

                                                                   River  Tay

                                                  Waterfalls at The Hermitage , river Braan

                                                  Bridge over river Tay , Dunkeld

                                                                             Dunkeld                                                                                                              

                                                                                                               Dunkeld  Cathedral

                                                              Sunset over Loch  Earn

   The road above Loch Tay                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

                                                              Rannoch  Moor

                                                        Falls of Dochart ,  Killin

                                                                     Ben  Lavers'  range .

                                                                       Glen  Lyon

                                                                         Castle  Menzies