Along Morocco's coast

On my second leg of Morocco's trip I went back north , moving up along Atlantic Ocean . From Agadir to Tangier , and  through Tetouan to Ceuta , in the Mediterranean .

Many important towns and cities are located on the coast , like capital city Rabat or famous Casablanca .

From Marrakech I got to Agadir on the bus , there is a new highway linking these cities , however I was hoping  the bus would ride the old road , crossing Atlas and through Taroudannt . Much more spectacular route . But it didn't - I arrived in Agadir before midday . When I got out the bus and had a look around , I wasn't sure if wanted to stay there . According to my guide book , this  city was a cheap package-tourism resort . After a short walk to cash point nearby , I decided to go to Essaouira . A taxi driver ( who was urgently waiting for my decision ) offered me to take me to this town . I refused , travelling by the taxi a distance of 170 km is too expensive . Instead , I took a bus , soon leaving to Essaouira .

On the bus I sat at the last row , as the bus was nearly full . My neighbour , a guy in his twenties speaking smooth english , explained me that on that bus nobody sat according to numbers on tickets . This was a minor bus company , so standards were lower. Anyway , we didn't have to wait long , that was an advantage . A bit further on , he warned me that soon the road would be uneven - making passengers sick . And the driver's assistant started giving out plastic bags - just in case . I didn't have to use it - I never got the locomotion sickness , and the road wasn't so bad actually . Well , the bus company was focused on customers' comfort . My travel companion was on holidays , travelling like me around the country . He spent two or three days in Agadir , relaxing on the beach , now moving to Essaouira where his relatives lived . However , he wasn't intending to stay at their place - to feel free and comfortable had booked a hotel earlier . He was kind to explained me some things about Morroco . For instance , told me about Phosphate's mining- quite rare mineral ,  mined for use in agriculture and industry .Morocco has an important position as exporter of that raw material . Especially Japanese buy Morrocan Phosphate, to extract from it Uranium    

Arid scenery somewhere near Agadir        

In Essaouira again I had to find at first a hotel , what I did with a help of a local man , in medina . I installed in a nice riad and went to see around . The souks on the narrow streets were busy , but the town seemed to be sleepy . Not too many tourists . No wonder that everybody stops there for short time - the wind is unbearable . And terribly cold , then in april . At more open space the wind flings grains of sand into your eyes . I stopped for a mint tea in a bar , on the edge of empty square . The bar was empty too - I could see a waiter spraying water outside , on the ground . I thought that  probably he did that to prevent dust , coming with gusts of wind . I moved back to medina to find entry to the fortress . Walked along the main aisle in old town and got to the gate on the other side of town's walls . More interesting area with fine buidings and big square . In the narrow street by the gate I found a large store , with local crafts. Beautiful and cute items made of wood mainly , stone and metal either. A bit like an exhibition , but you can buy all items , of course . On the square off the medina's walls, I met a guy who was selling sweet cokies . He was strolling in the area , carring them on the tray . I chatted with him for longer moment , as he wasn't hassling one . Finally he proposed me to buy a piece of hashish , he even wanted me to go test the quality on the side . But I refused , maybe tomorrow , I said . I tried yet to get to ramparts of the old fortress , but seemed to have been closed at that time of day . So I had a look at a fishing harbour nearby , took some pictures of the sunset over the ocean and move back to have a rest in my hotel . I was frozen . The wind battering the waterfront was getting colder                                                                                                                                                      

                   The Bastions in Essaouira was built in the 18 th century by Frenchmen , to decision of Sultan Sidi Mohammed , to protect  trans-saharan trade . At that time Essaouira became one of the most important ports of Morocco . Now this is only a sleepy coastal town , with fishing port and traces of the past glory .

Next morning I was leaving Essaouira . Too windy and I was curious of next places , ahead in north . Before I took a bus , I bought a wooden  mask , used by Black Africans for ceremonies . Nice to see it now , hanging on the wall . Anyway , I got to El Jadida , my next stop , in the afternoon . And I was surprised - it was kind different town then any other I had seen in Morocco by then . Because of really very few tourist , so nobody was proposing me to find me a hotel or anything else . So there was hard to find somebody speaking English , too . Mostly French , of course , and Spanish . I went down to boulevard , stretching along the shore from the center to the harbour and the Old Town . This costal area looked very exlusive , with residential buildings , offices or banks . I walked a mile along a palm avenue and close to the harbour scenery changed . More in colonial style , I would say . I passed a huge white building , the sign read " Hotel Maghreb " . Possibly former french colonial hotel or official building . After a moment of  hesitation , I moved ahead , hoping to find an accomodation in the Old Town .                                                                                                                                   

I quickly found the walls of  Portuguese Quarter , and through the gate entered sleepy walled old town . I met a french pair , tourists , so asked them for place to stay overnight . They had no idea , as they were only stopping in El Jadida shortly . But they pointed me out a local woman , who showed me a hostel , in small street nearby . Not far away from the gate , although the Portugese City , located on the edge of the ocean , wasn't very big .  Better for me - in most of medinas in Morocco finding way back wasn't easy . The hostel turned out to be quite expensive , but I agreed - it was luxurious at the same time and very beautiful . The reception man told me they had a small bar with alcohol on a higher floor and terrace on the roof . Indeed , I could enjoy night views of the town later on , sitting on the roof . The guy was very talkactive . He told me he had an american girlfriend and possibly he would go to her in a couple of months . I met him again on the terrace , under starry sky . He explained me that hexagonal minaret seen from the roof was the only one in Morocco . In fact , all mosque towers I had seen before were square .

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              

Night panorama of El Jadida from the roof of my hostel

 Next morning I decided to stay another day in El Jadida , but my plan was to move out and check in to cheaper hotel . Before I left Portuguese City , I went to see Old Cisterns , built by the Portuguese in 1514 . It was a source of fresh water , cought after rain . Now the place is famous for the reflections of the ceiling in the water . The cisterns is a popular scenery for filmmakers too . Most famous was Orson Welles , who shot there the scenes for the adaptation of  "Otello" . The cisterns are declared as World Heritage site by UNESCO .Worth going to take some pictures , walking is limited by pools of water .  

For the next night in El Jadida I stayed in " Hotel Maghreb " , I was curious of that old building . Located in the centre and by the sea , so I came there quickly . The front wall over the hotel entry was being repainted at the moment . But when I went into the building , I could see that whole interior needed a very complex restoration .  That would require a lot of money . But I couldn't imagine however , that these very few budget guest I saw , could bring enough incom to carry out such renovation . Anyway , there were spacious halls , huge staircase  and wooden window covers . Nothing had changed probably  over the time , I thought  . The toilets were crumbling down , filthy and in complet mess . The smelly room I got had big wooden bed , but bedding wasn't fresh . Well , good accomodation when you only need to stay one night and go away early morning . So after a stroll across a town and having had a look at souk late evening , my stay in that pleasant coast town was over . Next morning I took a taxi to a train station , which is located on the very edge of the town , among the fields . And the first time during my stay in Morocco , the taxi driver used a taxometer . 

   

Hotel Maghreb France in El Jadida                                                                                                             

I got to Casablanca quickly . That's only 100 km distance from El Jadida , so train journey lasts no more than an hour . Getting out of the train station the first thing to notice are tower buildings , in Casablanca's City . The largest city in Morocco is a financial and industrial capital . With a very important see port . After strolling in the 

central areas I took a taxi to the Grand Mosque , near  the harbour . The most grandiose mosque in 

Morocco was built in 1993 and partly built on the ground reclaimed from the  Atlantic Ocean . It claims to 

have capacity of 25 000 worshippers inside and has the tallest minaret tower in the world ,over 200 m etres. I was really impressed , especially at twilight when the mosque is artificially lightened up with . I didn't go inside 

as I hadn't booked a ticket for a guided tour . 

The Hassan II Mosque looks fabulous after sunset

I was picked up by the Mosque by Younes , who hosted me two nights over my stay in Casablanka . He just finished his work and got there late afternoon , by the chance he went inside the temple for short prayer . I couldn't  go there , for obvious reason . However , Younes told me that sometimes he used to see non - muslims inside , who had to be somehow accepted by an imam .  

Younes worked for an international softwear company , which had outside Casablanca it's logistic base and call centre , for quite a large part of the world , including Europe . That location surely because of lower costs in Morocco . My host took me on his car to show me a " Casanegra " - that's how the people call their city during the night hours ( Casa Blanca means  "white house" in Spanish ). And Younes soon showed me some examples ; two taxi drivers stopped cars and started arguing fiercely , nearly fighting . A couple of streets further next to an exlusive hotel  the police were taking a prostitute ( this is of course illegal occupation in Morocco ) , pushing her to a police car . Well ,   this is the night life of a big metrpolis . When we were passing a small mosque , one lane of the road was closed , so we had two slow down  in order to get through . What happens ? " Och , I know , the king is coming tomorrow for  the friday  pray , it's his favourit place " 

   The road and surrounds were being cleared out by workers , new flowers planted  to make the place look " nice and tidy " . According to Younes , that had been always like that , to show the king Mohammed VI  the country  flourishes . And it is bad , as the king could have a false picture of the country . The 46 years old king is known as a reformator , and has been trying to eradicate the poverty . So , Younes was contuining , the worst thing was that the king had been surrounded by people who didn't care to change the country at all .                     

                                                                                     

                                                                                                                                                                                                      

Roman Catholic Cathedral in Casablanca                                                                                                    

Casablanca is nowadays a huge city , with population of 3 000 000 people and I was often lost in the city . And not  much to see except for city center , whith some buildings from colonial time . The medina is not impressive . I liked the most the area of the Grand Mosque . Two days for Casablanca was enough - I left to Rabat on the train .

                                                       Viev across a river toward Sale , the town on the other side of the estuary

The centre of Rabat looked very different than other cities - many representative buildings and avenues. And cleaner and quieter . It is a political and administrative centre of Morocco . A tramline was running from the train station , so I followed the line to the Hassan Tower , the old unfinished mosque tower . Next to the tower I found the Mausoleum of the first king of independent Morocco , Mohammed V . Many Moroccans were visiting the place .           

                                                           

The 45 m- high minaret ( Hassan Tower ) was build in the end of XII century , when the construction of the mosque was abandoned in 1199 . Originally the Tower would have been 60 m high .

In Rabat I felt as a reborn - the air was fresh after the rain and a slight breeze from the Ocean was really refreshing . But soon the weather changed again - the clouds were back and it started to rain . So I took my time sipping a mint tea in the restaurant next to the river . Fortunatelly , the sky cleared out in no more than an hour and I could go to the Rabat's Medina .

                                                              The view of Kasbah des Oudaias

The garden inside the kasbah

I walked to fortified part of Medina , kasbah Oudaias , at the mouth of the river . There is a great viewpoint at far corner of the kasbah , overlooking the estuary , the city and the Ocean . I had read earlier in my pocket guidebook that by the kasbah gate I would meet unofficial guides , trying to tell that the kasbah is closed for prayer . And indeed , two men hanging out by the entry told me that . Of course it wasn't closed . Inside , by the Museum of Moroccan Arts I found a beautiful Andalucian garden . Later on , after contemplating the citie's panorama from the view's terrace , I went down , to the Medina . Rabat's medina is easy to walk , clean and not so crowded like others medinas in largest towns . Having had just a litlle time before leaving Morocco , I took a taxi outside medina and rushed to a bus station . I wanted to get to Larache the same day .

Moroccan capital seen from the kasbah across the estuary

I arrive in Larache after 2,5 hrs journey , late afternoon . It was  raining and cold . When I was getting out the bus , a small crowd of people run up , wanting to get on . First - come first - served . A moment later another bus came and waiting people were chasing the slowly rolling vehicle . Having seen these scenes , I decided immediately to buy a ticket for the next day in advance . The CTM's ticket office was still opened - so I bought the ticket to Tangier . There was a Spanish girl inside the office . She was waiting for her bus to Rabat - outside it was still rainy . She was spending a couple of days in Morocco , travelling like me , but she had visited this country before . She explained me how to find an accomodation ( I went to really cheap pensionat Almala nearby ) . By the way , she told me that on the first of May would be the change of the time . I was surprised ; but she continued that that change was due to time of Ramadan , a month of the fast . Ok , I thought , that day I would have been on the way to Gibraltar , from spanish Ceuta . But as the future will show , I would be surprised again .

                                   

Shortly after checking in at the pensionat , the down pour was finished and the sky cleared out . So I rushed for a walk around the town . This town looked the most interesting of all costal towns I had visited before . Very well looking town centre and amazing views over the bay , medina and a wide estuary . a long bridge led to the other side , across the river . I could see nice beaches behind estuary , but the weather wasn't welcoming , as for
staying on the beach .

 Fountains in the central plaza of Larache

The striking thing in Larache were colours , especially of blue buildings of Medina , slopping down toward estuary and the Ocean . I took some time before the sunset , wandering in Kasbah with steep , narrow litlle streets and blue painted walls . The most beautiful medina I have seen in Morocco . The perfect place if one wants to take colourful pictures .

These litlle guys started posing , when I was passing  with camera and had a fun , having seen the effect on the display screen . Kids are never shy of camera and often willingly approach the camera .

                                                                                                                                                   

Outside the medina I  passed a white , Spanish church , so I stopped to take a picture of it . But a man who had just parked his car next to me , started  talking to me about taking pictures . He sais I would need an authorization of the police . He spoke French but I could make out what he was talking about . I showed him that's only building , not people . He went away , still talking about the authorization .  I didn't think I would have to have permission , just to take pictures of public objects . But anyway , I decided to be more cautious when using my camera .

Kebibab Fortress at the mouth of Loukkos River was build in
15th cenrury and in 17 th century was used by the Spanish
as a hospital . Now the ruin , in the state of total decline .

Street stalls in medina , as everywhere in Morocco , are busy when darkness falls 

The next morning I was planning to see  the ruins of antic city Lixus , across estuary . But the rain made me to change the plan . Beside , I found out it's difficult to get back to the town , as buses were not often going there  and no chance to pick up a taxi at the ruins . Instead I went along the shore toward lighthouse . I found over there  cliffs and the old christian cemetery , with a chapel . Quite an extraordinary place , just above the ocean , overlooking the medina .

Christian graveyard 

I couldn't guess the function of this building , but the name " Matadero " sugests the Spanish built it 

And another building of Larache , of colonial - Spanish origin , possibly

At 11 am I left Larache , on the bus to Tangier . I didn't have much time to stay in that town , but surely it has specific charm and no rush can be found in there . Just the place where one can spent the time , discovering many secret places . On the other side of the estuary I saw nice beaches , so that would be nice get there when the summer is in full . At the time ( april ) the weather condition were poor as for sunbathing .

Maybe one day I will visit Larache one more time .

And again , on my arrival in Tangier , my last stop on the Atlantic coast  , I got into rain , at the moment even very heavy . Fortunatelly , it stopped after a half an hour and I could enjoy the beauty of this city .

The Tangier city centre shortly after the rain

More photos from Morocco just in this link                                                                                               

                                                   http://www.flickr.com/photos/50392306@N04/sets/72157629767986520/                                   

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    

On the way to Marrakech

I started my Moroccan travel in Spain , landing in Malaga , then westward to Algeciras by bus , where Europe meets Africa .
I left Algeciras on the ferry , coming to Tanger . From the boat I could see the harbour and the Gibraltar Rock a moment later , in the midlle of Gibraltar Bay. I reminded myself  that once , years ago in the Grammar School , I had had a plan to go to Africa , via Gibraltar Strait . I had told my colleaque that I would have gone to Gibraltar hitch-hiking and then just swim across the strait . My colleaque had been sceptic ; in the waters could have been sharks .Of course this was a silly plan - however I would find out  later in Morocco ,that some Moroccan people try to get to Spain using simple rafts , for instance . Anyway , possibly my idea of getting to Morocco on the ferry was associated in some way with this plan from distant times .

                    Container ship in the Gibraltar's waters , and behind  Gibraltar Rock  


I disembarked after an hour in the new Tangier port . The only way to get to the city was a taxi - over 50 kilometers . Tangier looked splendid - modern city and the beautiful bay . But I decided to leave it without stopping for long , I didn't see old Medina . I noticed people enjoying sunny day along the sandy beach and through " Ville Nouvelle " I walked to the train station . I took late afternoon train to Fez .
Wagons were really comfortable . Next to me sat a young Moroccan guy who explained me where would be a change of the train . I could not understand his French at all , but he understood a bit English . He showed me a papers received from Moroccan Vehicle Association in Tangier . I couldn't understand what the kind of matter he dealt , but he was on the way back home .
The landscape outside a train window was quite lush , green meadows and fields .Sometimes hilly , sometimes flat but really green scenery . Many white egrets looking for their meal-you wouldn't think this is North Africa . This guy next to told me he had never been to the desert - seems that he could only imagine how desert looks like . No wonder - you must travel beyond Atlas range to find sands of Sahara -mountains stop the damp air from the Ocean and rains are often .

                                                                                                           
                                                                                                    Tangier , in the city center .




















I arrived in Fez after twilight , took taxi from the station and driver rode me to the small hotel by Medina , old part of this town . I checked in and went out to stroll a bit - I walked to the Medina's entry . The guy who was an owner of the lodge just next to my hotel , warned me not to go inside Medina when dark . Too danger . I knew it too , and walked only to the gate and back . When coming back , this guy ( later I found out he was originally Berber from Merzouga ) invited me for a mint tea . He had three guests , two young guys from Izrael and one from Belgium . They tried to talk me into staying with them , but I told them I have paid yet for my room . The owner , by the way , said that would be not fair to steal a guest .
The guys from Izrael told me that they had had big problems when coming to Morocco , at the Casablanka airport . As they hadn't had visas , they had been told to go back . But they had been stubborn and denied going back . After four days of staying in the airport ,  they had been at last allowed to visit Morocco .

View on Medina in Fez , which is the most complete Medina in the Arab world and declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site .

Next morning I went to Medina which is huge . Narrow and steep streets bustle with people who constantly move fro and back , talking aloud . All the time somebody is making a way , carrying diffrent items on carts or bikes , sometimes using donkeys . There are many small craft shops , work rooms which are busy . All the time somebody wants to sell me something or show me the way in Medina . I bought one brass plate with nice pattern and spent quite long time in a textile shop of Berber man who I met earlier on my hotel's veranda . Two Izraeli guys suddenly turn out too and the shop owner demonstrated us how he uses a traditional weaving loom . I got out at last from Medina , after having lost in the maze of extremally narrow streets . I resigned of visiting most historic places in Medina , I was afraid of being lost completely . Dazed by the constat rush , noise of vehicles , I left Fez that first day in the town . I went to Bhalil , a very small town 30 km from Fez .

In Fez Medina life hasn't changed much since the city was a capital before 16 th century and inside many  surprising and beautiful places can be found .





















In Bhalil I spent one night in the house of Hassan , couchsurfer ( http://www.couchsurfing.org/about.html ) . This little town at the foothills of Moyen Atlas is very sympathetic - clean and colourful with the oldest part on the hill . In the second half of April there was still chilly , I think the temperature dropped at night to around zero centigrades . But because the place was close to the mountains , the air was nicely fresh . The next day I left Bhalil however , as my plan was to get to Marrakech . In order to do that , I firstly went to Sefrou , a town nearby , where I could take the bus to Marrakech . The center of Sefrou was very busy and loud that time - it was a market day . I found the office to buy ticket  and at 3 pm I was on the bus going down , to the south .

Little but beautiful town of Bhalil

      



The green scenery on route to Marrakech , the road runs across fertile mountain valleys 










I reached  the capital of the south after long journey , at 2 am . When I left the bus I could feel the climate diffrence ; dispite the night the air was much warmer then in the north . I didn't decide to find something to sleep , just wait in the station caffe till morning . Drinking caffee and a mint tea I could learn that big Holywood movie productions are being watched all over the world - people were sitting around me watching " The lord of the rings " . When morning arrived , I took at last a taxi to Medina where I hoped to find  a bed to sleep in a hotel , just on the corner of the main square , Djemma  el Fna . This huge square in the centre of Marrakech is very busy place , but in the morning I could see just a few people . In the hotel unfortunately I was told the place was full and I would have to wait till quests leave later on . I started to think what to do ( I had a heavy backpack so I felt quite uncomfortable to fetch it for long time ) . But one local guy noticed my consternation and came up , with proposal of helping me . He led me to a couple of small hotels but in every place they informed that there was no room . At last in one nice riad ( a traditional house with courtyard inside and without roof ) a guy in reception said I could check in . I got a room on the first floor - outside on the veranda above courtyard birds were chirping . That kind of accomodation is now very popular . Especially in old quarters of Moroccan's towns, many riads have been restored and remade
as small hotels .

Courtyard in one of riads  










  At first I was going to stay in Marrakech just one day , to see what is most interesting . Then go to Atlas Mountains and beyond , to Zagora on the edge of Sahara . But I stayed for three days . Firstly , because during cool night out in Medina I cought a fever and wasn't willing to move away till I have recovered . Secondly , because this city absorbs newcomers .The atmosphere of bustling muslim metropolis makes you want to discover all secrets of the city . The city which gave the name to the country ( Morroco is derived from the Berber name 'Murakesh' ) . The busy crossroad , where different influences where mixing and  camel caravans where arriving . The place where Black people , Berbers and Arabs mixed . In some way even today the one can sense something specific in the air . In Medina and Souks you can taste abundance of life ; colours , smells ,  craft shops , food stales , voices and hypnotic song of prayer from Koutubia Mosque .

    




Local traffic around XII-century Koutubia Mosque , with the highest minaret in Marrakech .

Souks in Marrakech are busy long after night falls




The main square , Djemaa el Fna , is the central place and heart of Marrakech . From midday the area of square and surronds is bustling with people shopping , eating out or just chatting . The owners of animals presenting them to the crowd . I saw monkey , snakes, but having seen a bird of pray make me sad . The bird , possibly a hawk , was attached to a string and had practically no tail . Around him a small chicken were feeding on the grain . I wasn't sure if the owner ran a show in which the hawk attacs chickens . I just walked away , not to see this bird kept on a string .

What I liked in Marrakech was wandering in the Medina , sometimes in quite remote areas , where probably I shouldn't have gone . I could stroll along these small , narrow streets for long hours , where tourists are rarely seen . But my common sense was telling me to come back . Partly because I could easily be lost .

                                      There are many wide alleys and boulevards in Marrakech too .

On the last day in Marrakech I went to the valley of the Ourika River ( Vallee de I'Ourika ) . That was quite refreshing as the weather in the Atlas is much cooler . I just took  one day excursion on mini van to the valley . Firstly when we came there we were shown a traditional  way of almond oil production in a Berber village . We could take a photo of people grinding seeds on the stones - actually they didn't look happy sitting there and posing for tourists. And we were shown at the shop products made by them . Next stop was at the end of the valley , where the trail to Setti Fatma cascades had the beginning . Our quide led us across the river and we climbed up the path  winding steep above the village . The trail up the stream was very busy , a lot of Morrocans  came that Sunday to enjoy the scenery . So we were moving very slowly . When we finally got there , I was a bit disappointed as I expected the waterfall to be bigger and more impressive . The guide told me there was more cascades , higher above that point . But we had to go back , down to the village . Anyway , that was nice hike . Dispite we had some two hours of free time when we got back to the van , I didn't move anywhere . I started shaking - a fever made me very weak .  I bought a medicine in a farmacy nearby (  amazing to find a farmacy in the heart of the High Atlas ) . Back in Marrakech  late afternoon , I decided to give up my plans of visiting Zagora and the desert , and the next morning I went to find peace and recovery on the Atlantic Coast . 

                                             A traditional fridge in the Ourika Valley

More photos from Morocco here ;  http://www.flickr.com/photos/50392306@N04/sets/72157629767986520/

The Orkney delight





Having had a couple of days off , I decided to visit the Orkney Islands , at last . I have always wanted to go there , so there was a possibility . Maybe the time of the year wasn't  right  to venture , but I thought that in the summer time the weather would be bad as well . Wind , rain and fog - that's normal weather all the year on this northern Scottish archipelago .

There are two ways to get to the Orkney. One is by the ferry - from Scrabster , Gills and Aberdeen. The second one is by the plane to Kirkwall , Orkney's main town.          

There is a network of ferries between Kirkwall and smaller isles and , what is interesting , the shortest sheduled airlink between two north islands - Westray and Papa Westray .
And if somebody would like to go further north , the ferry from Kirkwall to Lervick on Shetlands .









But firstly I had to get to the ferry terminal in Scrabster (Thurso) wchich lies on the northern tip of Scottish mainland , from where the ferry cross The Pentland Firth only within 1,30 hrs , comparing to 6 hrs cruise from Aberdeen . So because Janusz,  eager to go skiing in Aviemore , was going by the car the same direction , I took advantage of that and went with him . From Edinburgh , passing Perth and Inverness , we reached Wick and before going to ferry , we drove up to visit John o' Groat , and land's end nearby. The place is famous for the Duncansby Head , the north - east tip of  UK's mainland , with lighthouse on the cliff and view towards Orkneys. So we got out  of the car by the lighthouse , and very strong wind stroke  us immediately. So after taking just a couple of pictures ,we came back to the car , struggling  the gale .
Back at John o' Groat , we stoped at the local harbour , where is a visitor centre  and during the summer season special ferry takes tourists to the Orkneys and back .

       






The road to Wick along the north - east coast , in Caithness .

       





Muckle Stack , at Duncansby Head , marks the end of land near John o' Groat 

       





Around the harbour in John o' Groat











Janusz delivered me to Scrabster harbour late afternoon , where I was to take the ferry to Stromness . When I left the bar where I had had a cup of tea , waiting for my ferry , I met Mariusz and Karolina . They informed me that the ferry had been cancelled , due to the stormy weather . The last ferry that saturday . They needed to find the accomodation for the night then , so did I . So we alltogether marched to Thurso , where we found rooms in the hotel , not far away from Scrabster harbour. In the morning we continued our journey together , exploring  Kirkwall and main island during the next to days .

Capturing the elements - somewhere in the Pentland Firth 

View from the ferry towards Hoy , the second largest island in the archipelago                                   






The ferry crossing to Stromness is worth taking because of the view of the Old Man of Hoy , which is a huge , vertical stack ( rock formation sticking out of water ) on the west coast of Hoy Island . But unfortunately , due to uneasy waters , the ferry boat took direction along east side of Hoy , across Scapa Flow waters. Nevertheless , we enjoyed the scenery around this huge , natural harbour (on average the waters are deep 30 metres ) . The Scapa Flow basin used to be long the base for British Royal Navy, thanks to strategic location and during I and II World Wars the important naval battles took place there. 

Approaching the ferry terminal in Stromness

We didn't stay in Stromness when we left the ferry , just took stright away the bus to Kirkwall , which is the best place to stay on the Orkneys , either due to accomodation or good base for exploring the Islands. Firstly , we visited an old Cathedral in Kirkwall, build in 12 th century by Vikings, who ruled Orkney for 500 years. Build from red sandstone, it looks very impressive. The old town , quite small one, looks very cute. There is a craft shop with a traditionaly made wool clothes and souvenirs. In rainy days I would recommend to visit Orkney Museum or Old Whiskey Distillery .

 









 St. Magnus Cathedral , Kirkwall

St. Magnus Cathedral seen from the Earl's  Palace

                                                                                       

  

 

During the summer season , Kirkwall hosts many tourists , the weather is better then for bird watching or discovering all islands treasures on the bike . Now in february , very few tourists were coming, mainly  during weekends . So the town seemed to be sleepy , no rush on the streets , local people living in very slow, routine rythm . Nobody was in hurry . The better for us - we could taste the charm of these small streets or drink tea in a local tea room .

Streets of Kirkwall                                                                                                                                                                                                                    

But in general Orkney Islands are known for their neolithic heritage. Especially on the Mainland, but on the other islands too . Over centuries this land attracted settlers , thanks to fertile soils . After ancient people of stone age, who left megalithic structures , Pictish came , marking the land with round towers named brochs and stone villages around them . Later on Viking from Norway settled and build churches and palaces .

                                                             Standing stones of Stennes

On the second day in Kirkwall , we rented a car and made a tour around the main island . That was a nice ride and a couple of sites that was worth seeing , like Maes How tomb ,  4000 years old . The guide inside the tomb told us that Vikings broke there when stopped on Orkney Islands in 12 th century . Still many scandinavian runs are visible inside , carved by Vikings . On the next stop , in Scara Brae , we could see the site only partly , as they were closing when we came . What is a pity . This neolithic settlement excavated from the sand , last inhabitted 4500 years ago , looked impressive .

Neolithic villlage of Scara Brae

Another place of interest is a small village Birsay , on the nort west tip of the mainland . Now a place of no significance (exept for historic sites) , but originally it was the capital of Orkney Earldom in XI th century . The first cathedral was build in Birsay in 1064 by Earl Thorfinn and Bishop of Orkney was established .Now on the place of first cathedral stands St. Magnus Church . Later Robert Stewart , son of Scottich king James, was granted rule of Orkney in 1565 and he built his residence in Birsay -Earl's Palace - nowadays just remains of the great building 

                                                                                                                  

And Brought of  Birsay - small tidal island nearby worth visiting - we couldnt't go there as the tide was high when we came . On the island there are remains of viking's buildings and romanesque church . Interesting thing is  , 300 years earlier before Vikings arrival , Pictish church was built on the Brough of Birsay. The whole place in the late afternoon sun seemed to be really magical .                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

Tidal Island Brough of Birsay .

St. Magnus Church , Birsay

Earls Palace

                   

Nice surprise awaited me in Stromness , when I came there from Kirkwall , to catch the first ferry  back to Scrabster next morning . Around the midday the sky cleared out and I enjoyed a  walk over the hill  overlooking the harbour and along the old town to the Ness Point .     

The old town is very beautiful , stretching from the harbour along the shore . This part of the town looks as if the time has stopped there. Some buildings originate from 18 th century, when the town was an important trade post for Hudson's Bay Company and the base for whaling fleet . Many Orkadians were employed by the Company in Canada ,amongst them the famous arctic explorer from Stromness , John Rae . Rae in 1854 discovered Rae Strait , which was the last link in the Northern Passage . So as I was walking in empty closes of the Old Town , it seemed  nothing has changed since the imperial times of trade with Canada . Only instead of sailing ships the view of ferry arriving across the bay toward the  pier .                                                                

                                                         

From the Old Town I took tem minutes walk to the Point of Ness , which is a view point toward the open ocean and Hoy Island . Just a stone throw there is a golf course - what a perfect spot for playing golf .

                                   View from Point of Ness across Hoy Sound

       

                                                         

        Golf course by the Point of Ness













I could stay in Stromness longer , such a nice place it was . But had to go back after a day spent in the town ,  on the very first ferry the next day.When boarded the ferry in the morning I hoped to see the famous Old Man of Hoy , this rocky column on west coast of Hoy , but it was too dark when the ferry was passing .What a pity . In Scrabster the Orkney journey was finished .

Ferry arriving at the Scrabster terminal