Tuesday, April 2, 2013

PILLARS of HERCULES

 "The Pillars of Hercules" -  the point where continents of Africa and Europe meets , nearly melting together . Just two points on edges of continents , where the Gibraltar Strait is narrowest . The name derives , of course , from the Greek Mythology . Well known   mythical hero , according to ancient Greeks , made a channel between continents by pushing them apart .Or  according to another Greek historian Siculus , Hercules narrowed existing strait to keep off sea monsters from Atlantic Ocean .    
Antic people thought that behind the Pillars was only the Ocean and the edge of the world . Perhaps Atlantida too , lost somewhere far away . But Phoenicians were fearless and could sail far beyond , making trading routes to Cornwalia and setting trading colonies on Atlantic coast of Morocco . Even in Middle Ages untill the era of Great Discoveries started , it was belived that behind the Gibraltar Strait   the World had it's end , somewhere around Lost Islands of Atlantis . 
But the Gibraltar Strait has been over centuries a bridge between two continents . It is possible that some first Homo Sapiens got to Europe when the Sea level was much lower . After the fall of the Roman Empire germanic Vandals crossed the strait in 429 AD ,  to set up their realm in Northern Africa . Nearly three centuries  later Moorish muslim invaders  got across the strait to Iberia , settling there for the next centuries . Moors came back to northen Morocco after the fall of Sevilla and Granada , bringing from Andalusia their rich culture . And then Spanish and Portugese set up their stronghold on the African side of the Gibraltar strait , what originated gradual influence of colonial powers in the region . Still the strait is the best way to get across to Europe , the gate to the world of bounty .                                      


   
Tangier lays at the entry to the Meditereanen and overlooking Atlantic . From terraces in the old town the eye runs over the strait toward the spanish land . One tourist pointing out the hand across the waters explained to a small moroccan boy - " over there , FC Barcelona and Real Madrid " . The distant world of great football and  so close at the same time , just behind the narrow strip of water . 

View toward the Gibraltar Strait in Tangier                                                                                           



 
Tanger is Morocco's longest continuously-inhabited city since 750 BC . This is the most cosmopolitan town in Morocco now and then . The Americans established  here the first US consulate in the world in 1821( nowadays  a museum ) and the French handed over the city to an international authority ( 1923 - 56 ) . And still it is an international city , I could feel that when strolling in the New Town  , the area established by the French .
The panorama of Tanger's harbour and the old town from a terrace in the New Town                                   
            

The central areas of Tanger look very modern , with wide boulevards and avenues . But I didn't enjoy for long the city , leaving at night on the bus to Tetouan .


Tetouan revealed all it's secrets when I woke up next morning - the town is gloriously situated between the sea and Riff Mountains. The large old town , where I was often lost during my short stay , climbs up steeply the hill and  Riff mountains loom over the town in the valley . Once the town was the capital of Spanish Morocco - general Franco brought from this teritory regiments which took part in Spanish Civil War and that was decisive for his victory in the war .


 Mountain peaks surronding Tetouan offer great views on the town below , the tangle of white houses . Futher up north , Cabo Negro - a  very characteristic coastal landmark with a lighthouse on the top


                              The Palace in Tetouan's Medina is fine example of Moorish style in architecture

I left Tetouan by night and got to Ceuta where I could catch the first ferry to Spain . Actually , Ceuta is a part of Spain on African soil , just opposite Gibraltar , which is overseas territory of Great Britain on Spanish soil. The taxi driver who took me to Ceuta , mentioned about that with a smile . " Yes , it's funny " - I replied . From Ceuta there is the shortest connection to Europe across the strait , and early morning I disembarked in Algeciras' harbour .
                                                          The cranes at Algeciras' waterfront


Gibraltar is a little bit a mixture of a Spanish and British town , with traditional pubs and shops in the centre . The best way to explore the town is by taking a small city bus , which sneaks through the narrow streets of Gibraltar . I found out a bit about political aspects of Gibraltar sitting at a cafe in the old town , where I found press - cuttings . From archival articals I read that Gibraltarians in earlier referendums voted for staying under British sovereignty and with local institutions . This attachment to link with United Kingdom shows the Union Flag painted on the steps in Upper Town .
The steps painted with the Union Flag  leads to the Upper Rock                                                                  


There are different ways of getting to the top of Gibraltar Rock ; using a cable car , on the minibus tour or just walking up the asphalt path . Either way you choose the views are spectacular .
                                                      
 Barbary Macaque - the only monkey specimen living in Europe in wild on  Rock of Gibraltar - is an attraction for tourists visiting the Rock . And monkeys do know it well - they roam to get some snacks from them and people feed them - dispite the signs forbidding that . So now the population of macaques is thriving , however they hardly survived the Second World War . It's not sure what is the origin of Gibraltar colony - although these macaques had lived in Europe in prehistoric times , they didn't survived the Ice Age . Possibly monkeys were brought to Spain by Moorish invaders as pets from North Africa . Anyway , they pose to be photographers very patiently .  


From the slopes of the Rock, African land seems to be not far away . Jebel Musa ( Mount Moses )-the southern Pillar of Hercules stands just opposite Gibraltar . Romans called the mountain just Columna . According to  the myth , Hercules created a sea link between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean , spliting a blocking mountain in half . So one part of the mountain became Jebel Musa , the other Rock of Gibraltar .

The cliffs of Gibraltar overlooking the Spanish territory behind the border . 
The Gibraltar Strait has long been a gate ; to the Mediterranean or to the unknown world beyond in the west .So far the strait departs two continents . In the future there will be a job to do for Hercules once again - continent of Africa is nearing to Europe a few centimeters a year .
The Gibraltar Strait seen from the Rock of Gibraltar                                                                               
                       
                             

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