Monday, August 11, 2014

On Shetland Archipelago



Shetland Islands are the northernmost  isles  in UK - as far north as Oslo and southern tip of Greenland. Because of it's remoteness, the Islands lie behind main tourist routes.
However , this is truly a fascinating place and draws visitors keen on discovering local culture , learning about reach history of this region and for watching wildlife. Or just to enjoy the peaceful side of this Europe's corner .




Lighthouse on Bressay Island .

                                                         




For most visitors the starting point on Shetland Islands is Lerwick -the capital town on largest island ( Mainland ). The ferry boat connects the town with Orkney Islands and Aberdeen . The town due to its central position on archipelago is a great base for tourists wanting to explore all corners .





Lerwick's harbour




The Islands for five centuries was strictly tied with Scandinavian Kingdoms - Norway and later Denmark .The Vikings started the colonisation of Shetland ( along with Orkney ) in 9th century , and  there are traces of Norse language dialect spoken today .
Replica of a viking longboat at Lerwick's harbour  
                                           
















Stone with Scandinavian runs in Shetlands Museum in Lerwick






Lerwick became an important  in 17th century as the Dutch fishing fleet set up their temporary base , during summer 10 000 people could live in this settlement . Later the British built a fort overlooking the harbour to keep control over Lerwick during British - Dutch war .
Unfortunately , the first fort was destroyed by Dutchmen in 1673 and the fort was rebuilt a century later as Fort Charlotte . The old town grew around the Fort , the town became Shetland's capital in 19th century . Nowadays, the old parts around harbour are nicely renovated , what makes a nice walk along pretty Commercial Street and the  waterfront .





                                                  Fort Charlotte      
                                                 

  






















On the second day I moved south to
Sandwick ,  where I was going to get on a boat and explore  small Mousa Island . I had to wait long for the boat to come  (on Monday at 13.00 from Leebitton),so I walked to Hoswick , a nearby village.
In the local visitor centre I learnt that Hoswick , a bustling fishing village in 19 th. century , had been a place of massive whale's killing . Flocks of small  whales were drawn by people in boats to the shallow bay in Hoswick . It all reminded me of the way , the people of Faeroe Islands kill Pilot's Whales in modern days . The exhibition shows the archive photographs of that time and tells the story how fishermen won the legal battle in 1889 over local landlord , who claimed a third value of captured whales .













Leebitton , where ferry boat leaves to Mousa . 



Mousa is a popular visiting place on Shetlands , due to Mousa Broch and RSPB nature reserve , which attracts bird watchers . I went there mainly to see the Broch , which is the best preserved Iron Tower in Scotland . There are 120 remains of this ancient buildings on Shetland but this one is really impressive . These towers built over 2000 years ago using no mortar , were probably  constructed either as a watch towers and a living place . The spiral staircase inside leads to the top of the Broch , which is 13 metres high . Some people come to Broch at dusk , to watch Storm Petrels coming back from the sea to their nests hidden in the Broch .

In the reserve  I could watch indeed rare species of nesting seabirds - Great Skuas, Shags , Fulmars , Great Skuas and Arctic Terns. I have especially remembered the encounter with Arctic Terns -these little birds were attacking me ferociously, diving toward my head from different directions .They could be really nasty during nesting season.                                                       









Fulmars nesting on cliffs 


 
The next day and the next twist ; I set out early morning toward the "wild north " of Shetland , to northern isles . On the bus and taking two ferries  (across the second large island , Yell ) I got to the most northerly  isle , Unst . I was lucky , as I found a room for a night in the hostel in Haroldswick .




The village of Uyeasound , Unst .


Herma Ness , the northernmost tip of land of the British 
Islands , is a heaven for numbers of seabirds ; large colonies of different birds are found on sea cliffs . Main attractions for tourist are puffins - these little , cute birds are marvelous. They catch a small sand eels in the sea and feed their chicks hidden in deep burrows . Sitting on the edge of the cliff and watching these funny birds, made me feel  extraordinary - like being David Attenborough sent on mission to the remote part of the world .
                                                                 
                         






     Puffin in Herma Ness nature reserve                                                                                                                     
                                                       
 Gannets gathers before taking off to their nests , which are build on inaccessible rocky outcrops .
                                                 
Collection of small rocky islets , called Muckla Fugga , comes to view at Herma Ness. Beyond towards north , only vast expanses of the North Atlantic . This is also one of the most often photographed sights on Shetland Islands . The white lighthouse on the top was build in 1857-58 by father of famous writer , Thomas Stevenson . Looking at the lighthouse and misty ocean behind , you may think this is really the gate to the end of the World.



 I found more idyllic scenery in the south Unst , having moved to Uyeasound the next day .This beach on the picture above is called Sandwick and when the Sun appeared suddenly , the view was breathtaking .If there were palm trees growing around , the beach would look like serene spot from Caribbean Islands . If if ... after a while the shroud of clouds was back again .

 An hour walk from Uyeasound I enjoyed another peaceful spot , a beach in Lund . The ruins of St. Olaf's
 Church overlooking the beach from the cliff, adds to the magic ambience of the place .










I returned  to Lerwick on the last day of my stay in Shetland - I had limited time . I came back on early morning bus from Unst , so I had enough time to make a short trip to Scalloway , on west coast . It used to be a Shetland's capital in the past , and it is the second largest settlement of the Archipelago.                                                                                                                                                                               Scalloway turned out to be pleasant place , developed around a deep bay with neat streets  and with some trees ( trees are almost nonexistent on Shetland Islands ).


Scalloway is known for its tribute during World War II ;
so called " Shetland Bus " operation was being carried out between 1942 - 1943 . The local fishing boats were bringing secretly people and supplies between Shetland and Norway under Nazi's occupied Norway . There is a small memorial on the waterfront , commemorating lost lives during the operation .

However, the most interesting facts I found in Scalloway Castle , which is actually a large tower house . Built by Earl Patrick Stewart in 1600 , represents the tyranny of the Stewart family after annexation of Islands by the Kingdom of Scotland. Patrick Stewart was executed in 1615 as a result of his brutal and repeating actions against his local rivals .His son Robert shared his father's fate. Interestingly Robert Stewart, who on behalf of his imprisoned father started a rebellion (to subdue their local rivals) , kept old Norse customs in use.Not in line with the Scottish Crown , though .


Whenever I see Shetland Ponies ( cute beasts they are) , it will remind me of Orkney . Maybe I will return there one day .

 

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